hair cutting tips

As a self-taught hair stylist, I picked up most of my hair cutting knowledge by seeing and a lot of doing. After watching a few hair cuts, I was able to pick up on some tricks of the trade (and best methods to thin/texturize). And after having my own hair cut every few months by different people who are just learning, I have learned which angle to hold the scissors for the best layers, what kind of texturizing works on my hair, and to NEVER EVER cut the hair near my face. If you have ever cut my hair, you know what I am talking about.

So here is a random list of hair cutting tips for anyone who wants to learn a new skill or is just plain curious:

1. When in doubt, comb.

Nothing helps you more when you are trying to get a very even bottom or layer than to re-comb the hair a few times and then look at it. You would be shocked how many times you can cut a very straight line, only to comb the hair and find numerous longer hairs who were hiding. If something isn't working, take a moment to re-wet any drying hair and comb the entire head several times to get everything laying straight.

2. Hair cutting scissors really do matter.

I have never owned a professional grade of hair cutting scissors, but even if you are cutting your husbands hair or trimming your bangs, you should buy a cheap hair cutting scissor. Trust me, it really helps make a clean cut. I recommend getting a pair for $7-10 at target (in the aisle with the hair pins and elastics).

3. Almost always texture layers.

Adding a little bit of texture on layers helps enormously. The only times I don't texture hair is when either they have super thin/fine hair or if they want a very blunt cut. But for most long layered hair styles or short hair styles, texturizing always helps. It helps the layer blend without going too short or becoming too choppy. Whenever I am getting my hair cut and something just isn't blending, I tell the person to stop layering and just texturize that area. It almost always fixes the problem and keeps the person from cutting something way too short.

4. Texturize by cutting up into the hair. Never use texturizing sheers.

For anyone who has been scarred by texturizing sheers (like when a stylist cuts one inch from your scalp, so that you have all these little hair sticking up), you know that you hate them. NEVER LET SOMEONE USE THESE ON YOUR HAIR. Instead have them use regular sheers and cut up into the ends of the hair.

5. Be aware of where you part the hair.

If you always part your hair on the same side, I recommend cutting the hair on that part so that the hair around your face will look even. If you don't like it when one stray hair falls to the wrong side, I usually trim a few of the longest pieces near the part, so that if they are on the other side one day they won't stand out.

6. Cut less length off to start with.

Hair always shortens a little when it dries, so be careful when cutting a lot of length off. I usually cut a little on the safer side, and then have the person look at the length. I am more than willing to cut another half-inch or inch off the bottom, but you don't to cut it too short from the start. Also be aware that you often have to take a tiny bit off the length to even it, so just go easy at first.

7. Never cut bangs straight across.

Bangs almost always need a little texturizing at the ends. I usually cut them longer than I want them, and then texturize them to get them the right length. If you cut them the right length and then texturize, then you might end up with a bang that is too short.

8. Use clippers sparingly on men.

Yes, clippers (or buzzers) are great when cutting men's hair. But I only use them around the neck and back of the head. If you use them all over the head, then it tends to look like they are in grade school. I recommend using these to get a clean cut around their neck where it is short and then use scissors to cut the sides and top of the head.

9. Visualize layers to get an idea of how much to cut off to get the right angle or length.

I admit that this part takes either a talent for a good eye or a lot of practice. But be aware that it really matters what angle you cut when you are doing layers, how much you cut, and where the hair is going to fall on the head. I often show people to pinch the hair where they think they want to cut it and then pull it back down towards the head to see where it hits. Doing this several times with different angles helps you get an idea of the end result. Also be aware that most people have very thick hair on the tops of their head and it thins out on the bottom. So often you need to cut at a different angle near the bottom so that the layers aren't top heavy.

10. Watching really helps.

Some of my best learning experiences were when I watched extremely closely while my hair was being cut to see the kind of angles the stylist used, how she texturized my hair, and how she blended the layers. I recommend watching very closely while you are at the salon and asking lots of questions along the way.